Bikepacking is like doomsday planning on bikes. If you have toured before (especially outside of your comfort zone), I think you should be able to add ‘strategic planning’ to your resume. I do consider myself a professional planner who normally thrives in creating elaborate experiences amidst challenging contingencies. A self-proclaimed title after studying Geology in the field, working as a Tour Guide, and organizing many events for myself and others. Although, after a long year of doing a whole lot of planning for work and personal life, I was ready for a challenging journey in Catalonia (Spain). Little did I know that I would end up lowering the stakes and settling for one of those credit-card bikepacking trips that the backcountry touring purists would likely frown upon. But hey, that’s bike biz.
THE JOURNEY TO CATALUNYA
The Black Foxes make it a goal each year to have all 8 of us connect in-person at least once, and it is a privilege to be able to make that meetup happen in a new place for all of us to discover together. In the past, we have ventured to the San Juan Mountains of Colorado for gravel riding, to the Great Smoky Mountains of Tennessee for an off-the-grid bikepack tour and to California for a little bit of everything.
For 2022, we chose to cross the Atlantic Ocean. Since Ayesha, Will, and Marty made home just outside of Girona, Spain, the Foxes had been scheming up a way for all of us to get out there and enjoy the cycling mecca. Naturally, we were all excited to ride bikes, eat good food, immerse ourselves in the culture, and share many laughs together. However, we are also individuals who have different interests outside of our mutual vision. Bailey would try to climb up every local mountain on her Langma. Raequan would wheelie at every major tourist attraction. Nikki would conquer her longest gravel ride. Jalen would tour every coffee shop for the best cuppa while Ayesha seeks out the best pancakes. Will and Marty would practice their Catalan and teach us all about the local culture and history. My personal goal was to set out on my own to see what lies beyond Girona with a loaded bike.
PLANNING THE TOUR
We knew for nearly a year that we would be going to Spain in the fall. We had to know. It takes a lot of time to coordinate an international trip for eight folks from different places with their bikes and different goals. I knew for a while that I wanted to bikepack while I was there, but I hadn’t really started planning out the adventure until a couple months before. Keep in mind, I had a busy year. I had just left my career as a tour guide and was still settling into Denver, Colorado, as my new home. I had a busy summer of gravel racing, supporting Thee Abundance Project, promoting The Black Foxes Film and all the other life events in between. In late September, I finally sat TF down and focused on this trip.
It took a few days of burying my head in Google Earth, Bikepacking.com, Ride With GPS, Strava, Komoot, and every other website that could tell me anything about traveling by bike in Spain. I had to consider the weather for what gear to bring, the road conditions for how to setup my bike, the businesses that would be open in the ‘shoulder season’ of tourism for acquiring food & water, the sites I would want to see along the way, and, most importantly, how to time it all perfectly to align with the grander Foxes’ schedule. No worries. I’m a professional planner, right?
October in Northeastern Spain is pretty ideal for a tourist coming from Turtle Island. The summer peak of tourism has passed to relieve the streets of traffic and there are still plenty of fun things to do. The weather is temperate enough to pack light, enjoy long days in the saddle, and have a refreshing dip in the water. The trails are in great condition after drying out in the summer heat and getting packed down by the fair-weather cyclists. Specifically for me, this timing was also key for two reasons: 1) I had decent fitness after a long summer of all those races and events, and 2) I was ready for some solitude after the overstimulation of a very social year. The only limitations were the colder weather in the Pyrenees mountains and a lack of lodging options since the summer camps and hostels would be closing for the winter season.
After many iterations, I settled on a 4-day loop that would start in Girona, ascend Northwest into the Pyrenees Mountains, follow the French border back east to the coast, and descend back south to Girona through gentle valleys of farm country. I would ride on mostly gravel trails and paved roads. I would find camp at a private ecological farm and a couple B&Bs, and I would hope for the best that a campground with an outdated website would be open on the last night.
CAMPING CATALONIA STYLE
I must admit one of the funniest discoveries in my planning was the Spanish interpretation of “camping”. When I search for “camping" in the United States, I will typically find options for properties that allow tent and vehicle camping. The options could be on private land but more often I find them on public lands, national/state parks, forests, and backcountry BLM areas. The fee is usually much more affordable than a hotel or there may be no fee at all if the campsite is “dry” (meaning no water on-site and likely no facilities).
When I search for “camping” in Spain, most of the results include private properties with structures like hotels, B&Bs, and cabins. I even found numerous properties that have “Camping” in the name but clearly do not offer outside tent camping. Instead they will have cabin and bungalow structures that cost only slightly less than a cheap hotel room. As someone who was intending to spend as little money as possible by dry camping, this made my planning challenging. I also wasn’t sure of the land laws and jurisdictions there—whether backcountry bivvy camping would be permitted on certain land areas. Not wanting to find out the hard way, I settled with the notion that I would likely end up spending some money on lodging. This wouldn’t be my first compromise..
FINAL TOUCHES TAKE A TURN
With the route and lodging planned, all that was left to do was pack my bike and bags, and set myself up for safety. You read that correctly. Safety, not success. Because safety is what matters most to me. For me, that means prioritizing:
a heightened awareness of my environment
resources for navigation
having the means to communicate in case of an emergency
That last notion is what forced me to further compromise on my plans. I had overlooked a detail about my plan for international cell phone coverage. I arrived in Spain via the Barcelona airport with the Airalo App downloaded, eSIM card for Spain purchased and ready to activate. In an attempt to activate it via the airport WiFi, I discovered that my device had to be “Unlocked” in order to use an eSIM card. It may be common sense to most folks but I rarely buy new phones and was not aware of the limitations of those phone upgrade programs where you pay monthly on the cost of the device. My phone was, unfortunately, locked and even after paying off the full sum, it would take 1 too many days to process for me to be equipped with cell coverage before the end of my trip. I was going to have to cut my bikepacking trip shorter after taking nearly 2 days of phone calls with AT&T to realize I would not be resolving the sim card permission issue. Like the pro planner I am, I just had to pivot.
After all the grief over lost time, I decided to opt for a low-stakes, overnight trip to the home of Salvador Dali—Figueres. If my phone could not “raise the bar”, I was going to have to fill it’s memory. Offline Maps, GPX files, screenshots, and notes, for different route options in case I need to make a detour or bail out. Although, I was very hopeful I would not have to bail. The preferred route would stick to mostly populated areas with short stretches of gravel in between and I would spend the night in a bustling, tourist city. I made the stakes too low to shy away from the trip. So low, in fact, that I ended up booking a “hostel” room in Figueres for ~60 USD and reserved tickets to stroll around the local museums. I was truly doing it for-the-culture.
the tour
Image captured in Google Earth of routes for Day 1 (yellow) & Day 2 (orange) of Alexa’s Bikepacking Trip to Figueres, Spain.
DAY 1: GIRONA TO FIGUERES
Most of my packing for this short trip was done the night before so I would not feel rushed in the morning. I had initially brought enough gear to camp completely off-grid (sleeping bag, sleeping pad, tent, stove, insulating clothing, full first aid kit, water filter, large fork bags, etc.), but an overnight stay at a hotel negated most of that. As I tossed these items back into my luggage, I quickly realized the temptation of “credit-card bikepacking”. I have to admit the feeling of shedding weight from gear that would slow my pace was pretty euphoric. To fathom how much faster, and rowdier, I could ride.. Why not? It’s not like there are rules to bikepacking.
My setup included:
A small handlebar bag to hold my electronics and first aid. I like to keep items at hand’s reach that I may need quick & easy access to like my camera while I am riding, or first aid that I can easily grab if I take a spill.
A large saddle bag to hold clothing, a towel, and extra food. The towel is good for watering holes, an alternative to bad (or no) hotel towels, or a way to dry any wet clothing. The extra food is the kind that I would make a stop to eat since the saddle bag can’t be easily opened while riding.
A half-sized frame bag to hold more easy-access items like tools, snacks, electrolytes, and toiletries like face/body sunscreen, chamois cream, toothbrush, toothpaste, lip balm, deodorant, and soap. I try to find more concentrated versions or travel sizes of these things to minimize weight.
I like my bikepacking bags to be waterproof, lightweight, easy to install, and easy to pack/unpack. There are many many brands out there but I most commonly use: Woho, Swift Industries, and Apidura. I have also used bags from Giant Bicycles/Liv Cycling.
With the routes loaded, all electronics charged, and the bike ready for takeoff, I set out from Girona to Figueres. First, I would ride along part of la Ruta del Ter which runs parallel to the prominent river, Ter, that runs from Les Guilleries mountain range down to Costa Brava and into the Mediterranean Sea. It’s an idyllic greenway to take out of Girona that is mostly unpaved. I have seen a confident road cyclist or two brave the dirt but the farther you are away from towns, the rougher it can get. For me, a gravel bike felt like the perfect choice. The greenway passes through local farm country and reforestation areas of birch trees with masias dotted along the way. A masia is a residence, farm, or production center that tends to be on a large isolated plot of land. Many of them have existed for centuries. Those first 16 miles were a lovely, gradual descent deeper into the Emporda Valley.
Day 1 Ride: 34.5 MILES +1400 FEET / 55.6 KILOMETERS +450 METERS
Then, I got to enjoy all of the day’s climbing on a ten-mile mix of asphalt and what I would consider 4x4 roads. The main roads in this area were very smooth and made for some dreamy “rollers” aka a lot of fun time in the drops of my handlebars. It would not necessarily be impossible, but I couldn’t imagine getting a flat from that pavement. I felt very optimistic and it would prove true with no mechanical issues for the whole trip—even for the unpaved sections. I do wish there were more unpaved segments on the route I took. This route was the most direct way to have 45% unpaved and 55%paved road, but I was left wanting more of the unpaved, so I may suggest you find a more scenic route if you prefer more dirt. That said, the dirt that I did ride on was quality groad. I was captivated by the variety of textures including hard pack dirt, kitty litter gravel, cobblestone, bedrock, rutted double track, muddy patches in the trees, and cutty singletrack connectors. I didn’t run into many others on these sections aside from 2 older men on bikes and a couple of farm trucks. The most traffic I had was a flock of sheep being herded across the road, until I got to Figueres of course.
The last stretch into Figueres started from the route’s summit of Garrigas where I was able to get a glimpse of the Pyrenees mountains tucked away to the north. It was another lovely descent of 8 miles over mostly paved road, through more farmland, and into Figueres. Sticking to the main road GIV-6227/6228, I was able to cruise right into the heart of town. This area is known for being the birthplace of the artist, Salvador Dali (1904-1989), and a place of complicated colonial history as far back as 700 AD. Today, it hosts a population of 46k+ people and over 1.5 million tourists each year. There was so much to experience. I was only going to scratch the surface.
The sun was setting as I arrived and my ~60 USD room at a local Hostel was beckoning. I made a few zig-zags through the cobblestone and landmarks of La Rambla, then through the narrow roads and alleyways to find my way to the Hostel. Admittedly, I had difficulty discerning between vehicular roads and pedestrian-only pathways. I could be riding on what appears to be a walkway with many pedestrians and, suddenly, I would see a car making it’s way down. This seemed to be common in the older city centers, like in Girona and Barcelona, where the old narrow streets could not possibly be retrofitted for 2-way traffic of modern vehicles. Yet, the smaller European cars manage to squeeze their way through. I imagine it makes for a much more skilled driver than the ones I see swerving in a double wide lane on those monstrous American interstate highways. I’ll leave that debate for another time. That is all to say, it was interesting to navigate on my bike differently than I have to in the United States. The real joy was the grace that the local drivers and pedestrians would give me on the bike. No road rage, no victim blaming, no screaming about “inconvenience” at one another. Cyclists seemed to be more respected in Catalonia than in many parts of the U.S. that I have ridden in. I felt welcome.
The hostel was truly more of a traditional hotel than what I would consider a hostel. I had a private room with a full bathroom, dining area, and television. After checking in, I didn’t want to waste much time before getting food in my system. Ideally, I like to eat within 45 minutes of finishing a ride and that wasn’t hard to do in Figueres. My first order of business would be to wash my bike clothes which I did in the bathtub easily enough. I was able to hang them up nicely on a cute little clothing rack and it was warm enough for them to air dry overnight. I quickly washed up, put on my Pedalhomie shirt, pants, and Tevas, and walked straight toward La Rambla (the city center). I found a local cervesaria (brewery) called El Dynamico to enjoy a tasty beer, a very large plate of olives, a fresh salad with so many different vegetables, and an underwhelming chicken burger—to be expected. I took my post-dinner walk through the placas to admire the architecture, statues, and other art installations. There were many other tourists and locals walking about. Eventually, I figured I should rest my legs for the next day of museum hopping and the ride back to Girona. So, I turned in to watch some Gremlins dubbed in Spanish, not forgetting to charge all of my devices for the rest of the trip.
DAY 2: SOMEWHAT CASUAL BIKEPACK FIGUERES TO GIRONA
One thing that Ayesha made very clear since her move to Spain was that they really do not do breakfast like Americans. Many cafes won’t open that early and, when they do, their options for food can sometimes be very minimal or just more of a deli vibe. The most common breakfast items are pastries, pan con tomate (bread with a tomato spread), and bocadillos (baguette sandwiches with deli meat). You will have a hard time finding anything like a diner or with a menu offering eggs, bacon, or pancakes. This translated well to the hostel breakfast. I wasn’t surprised when I went into the complimentary breakfast area to find nothing but coffee, cheap orange juice, pre-packed miniature pastries, sliced bread for toast (no jam), and slices of ham. It was all to be expected though at a hostel of the same standard as a Holiday Inn. Although as someone who does not eat red meat, the bocadillos and jamon were not going to be an option for me. Thankfully, I had come prepared with some quick oatmeal so I made do with some hot water and leche de avena (oatmilk). One thing Spain is good for is the alternative milk options. After breakfast, I fumbled through my Spanish vocabulary to ask the hostel staff if I could stow my bike somewhere while I went to the museums. I knew I would not make it back to the room before check-out and, thankfully, they were kind enough to let me stow my loaded bike in a storage closet. Off to the museums, I went.
I had about 3 hours to spare for my little field trip so I prioritized seeing the Dali museum and the Museu de l'Empordà, both art museums with a dense collection of unique works. I was especially intrigued to see the Dali museum after seeing his works at The Ralli Museum in Caesarea, Israel. It was part of a short term student exchange program I participated in during high school where I got to travel all over Israel and see many of the most popular sites. I could go on about that trip and the complexity of my feelings now considering the genocide that has taken place.. but another time. The museums did not disappoint! Of course, it hardly felt like I had enough time. There was SO MUCH to see. It is truly bewildering to think of how Salvador was able to produce such a high volume of art in his lifetime, and on top of that, the architecture of the buildings and displays themselves. Paintings, statues, furniture, jewelry, mixed media, and all varying in size to fit in the palm of your hand or up to 3-4 stories high. It was amazing to see what one mind is capable of when given creative freedom. I don’t consider myself a trained artist in any sense, but I felt inspired to be more creative and authentic to the wild parts of my imagination. It was worth the ride.
After 7,000 steps to start my day, I was due for second breakfast. I got back to the hostel, used the lobby bathroom to change into my kit, and rolled out the door. I stopped at a cute park a little ways from the city center to get some quiet, and set up a nice spread from the food in my saddle bag. I made the most adult lunchable I could with crackers, avocado, tinned sardines and tabasco. It might sound crazy but I promise it’s tasty and it always give me clean energy—no upset stomach. I have had enough experience with gut issues while riding from eating too many processed foods high in sugar and low in nutrients to know what works best for me. This tinned fish-cracker-sandwich-treat was my creation back in 2014 that got me through a 6-week field project in the Chilean Andes where I was hiking 10-15 miles a day with a 75 pound rucksack of rocks and equipment. It hasn’t steered me wrong since. I do recommend the tinned fish in olive oil or tomato juice for more flavor. If you are real squeamish about fish, I would also suggest the boneless & skinless variety which you can find at Trader Joes. After the full tin of fish and a whole avocado, I was ready to rock and roll.
Day 2 Ride: 31 MILES +1400 FEET / 50 KILOMETERS +450 METERS
The ride back to Girona would prove to be much different than the ride out, because what went down had to come back up. I had to gain all the elevation back after all of that lovely descending from the day before. Thankfully, it was still pretty gradual for most of the ride but I would end up deviating from the plan. The plan was to take the same route back, traversing the same unpaved sections and backroads to avoid the busier roads. However, the ride back up to Garrigas set the tone for what would be an arduous day. I was thankful for the shift in cooler weather, but I had not accounted for that being due to some strong winds. Riding uphill and against headwind is just a terrible combination for a cyclist like myself who was looking for a chill ride. Nonetheless, I pivoted and overcame.
I decided to stick to the paved roads to make for a smoother, faster ride that would get me back to Girona in time to eat paella with the other Black Foxes. This is where my alternative route options came into play. The Hammerhead (bike computer) was also very helpful in rerouting. I had added the heatmap feature to make it easier to find roads that were commonly rode on. Some of these roads were busier, but as I mentioned before, the drivers were pretty accommodating—even when I was riding on the shoulder of what felt like a highway. Still, it was a tough ride. I was thankful that I had opted for the low-stakes trip and didn’t have as much gear loaded onto my bike. I can imagine I may have totally bailed if not.
If I did need to bail, the train was always an option. A regional train by Renfe would run every 30 minutes at any station between Girona and Figueres (and beyond). The train paralleled my route the whole way and I would check in with myself as I approached each station area to see if I wanted to kick the bucket. It weirdly motivated me to keep pushing. To know that I always had an out made me feel more secure to keep pushing on. It brings me pride and joy to say that I successfully made it back to Girona by my own pedaling. Once I made it around the bend below Muntanya del Congost and the valley opened up to the industrial outskirts of Girona, the last few kilometers were easy-going. I was distracted enough by the sights and sounds of the carrers (streets) to ignore the pain of my sore legs and just take in the happiness of accomplishing such a journey.
In my line of work, I tend to be moving so quickly from event-to-event and project-to-project that I rarely have time to reflect on what I am doing and what joy it is bringing me—or isn’t. It may have only been an overnight trip, but it was enough time for me to meditate on my life and realize how fortunate I have been. My mother always wished for us to travel the world and do great things beyond what society tells us Black women are limited to. As I got closer to reuniting with the Black Foxes, I was overcome with such jubilation to realize I was succeeding in my mother’s wishes. I could not wait to get back to WiFi so I could tell her all about it. It was all good news to her except the fact that I did not find a foreign soulmate to sweep me off my feet. HA! Who knows, though? That was just one short trip. Hopefully, I will find my way back out there again for a longer tour, maybe even the one I had originally planned. Until then, I will make the most of the opportunities I have on Turtle Island.
For more content or to ask me anything about this trip, you can find me on Instagram or use our Contact page for an email discussion.